Pick out your 430mm Blank
Clearly mark the diagonals on both ends
Be sure to mark this out very accurately so that you can find the exact centre of the Timber Blank
Now use a centre punch to create a hole at each end. This hole will allow you to accurately mount the timber on the lathe.
The hole shown clearly here
Now use a tenon saw to cut 5mm deep grooves across the diagonals of just 1 end
Here are the trenches clearly shown
This is a spur centre, it is used to drive the timber on the lathe
Drive the Spur Centre in with a wooden mallet so you don't damage the Spur Centre
Here is the Spur Centre driven in to the timber
Now imagine your Timber Blank being turned down as shown here. Before turning, we need to remove most of this waste. This speeds up the turning process and looks after out cutting bit.
To do this, use a marking gauge set at 20mm to mark out the waste that you need to remove.
Draw the pin along the length of your timber stock making sure the block of your Marking Gauge is always in contact with your timber. This ensures your lines are parallel to the edges.
This video demonstrates how to use the marking gauge clearly.
You need to produce these lines on all 4 sides of the Blank
Place your blank in your vice so that you can plane off the excess timber on each corner.
This video shows how to plane off the corners.
This shows the first corner complete. Repeat this process on all 4 corners. Be sure not to plane over the pencil lines.
Now find the centre (215mm). Centre punch that mark then produce 2 other marks 65mm apart in each direction.
Here you can see the 5 marks ready for drilling.
Line up your marks and use the 38mm Spade Bit to produce your holes. Ensure your project is securely clamped before drilling. Also, the depth stop must be set to ensure you do not drill to deep.
Once all 5 holes have been drilled, mount your project on the lathe above the blank as shown here and in the next few slides.
Line up the spur centre first then slide the Tail Stock along the Bed so that the Dead Centre holds it in place.
After locking off the Tail Stock in position, wind Hand Wheel in to apply pressure to your project.
Now lock the Tailstock to the Bed by tightening the Locking Lever.
You are now ready to start turning.
Ensure that both your project and the Template line up as shown here. This effects the accuracy of the copy.
Watch these 2 videos that shows the Copy Turn in action. Pay close attention to the Hand Positions.
Notice how much material is being removed in these passes. Trying to take off too much each time has the potential to ruin your job.
Here is the rough copy finished. It is now ready to take off this lathe and move to the other lathe.
Undo the Tailstock Locking Lever which allows the Hand Wheel to turn.
Now wind the Hand Wheel to release your project. You are now required to help the next student set up their project ready for turning.
As always, you will use 3 grades of garnet paper to sand down your timber...80 then 120 then finally 180. The following video shows how to sand effectively on the lathe.
Don't pull too hard on the garnet paper as this may pull the timber off the lathe. Make sure the dust extraction is on and the vent is close.
Here you can see the difference between the timber sanded with 80 grade on the left and the timber yet to be sanded. Execute long even passes to maintain an even shape.
Once you have finished sanding on the lathe, have your teacher cut off and sand the excess timber at each end. Then mount in the vice upside down as shown. Draw a line along the exact bottom.
Don't tighten in the vice too hard. Now plane a flat section along the project as shown here. Keep planning until the flat spot is around 35-40mm wide.
Lightly sand the finished flat spot with 180 grade.
Now your finished product should be able to sit steadily right way up by itself. This is important given that it will house naked flames.
Now you need to sand down the end grain to remove ALL of the Disc Sander marks. Done well, this process makes the project look fantastic, done poorly, it can really detract from the end product.
Here is the end grain before you start sanding. Note the visible Disc Sander marks.
Here is the end grain after you have finished hand sanding (without a Cork Block!!!). Each yearly Growth Ring should be clearly visible. You are now ready for the Tung Oil.
And here is the finished product with 4 coats of Tung oil applied.