I learned how to do this by following the post by jlangford here: us.lexusownersclub.com/forums… Please reference his work for more details and photos.
This is the unit we're dealing with. The touch screen digitizer is broken and while the screen works, it doesn't register touch.
You start by pulling the vent unit out. See those tabs?
Use a flathead screwdriver to flip them down. There's 4.
Use a screwdriver or flat tool to gently pull the vent unit out.
The vent unit being pulled out.
You will have to disconnect two cables. No idea what they do... But no big.
Again the unit out and the cables clearly shown.
Here are the first two of the four bolts to remove.
To get to the bottom set of bolts, use a screwdriver to gently pull these rails off.
Pretty easy task.
The bolts are pretty tricky to access; you'll need to have a longer socket driver or use an extension. Take care to not drop the bolt!
Removing the shifter handle is not necessary, but it's simple to unscrew and gives you a bit more room for when you pull the unit out.
The whole unit comes out like this. I suggest putting a folded towel down on your center dash to protect it from the heavy unit's frame scratching things up.
There are a myriad of cables to disconnect. Taking a picture to have a reference of how everything is properly connected is useful, but it's pretty obvious where things go.
The unit fully pulled out and disconnected.
The first time I did this I made the mistake of dismantling the whole thing. You only need to remove the frame and pull the screen unit out.
There are 8 screws holding the frame on. You can see some of them at the bottom of this photo.
Carefully use a screwdriver to release the several tabs and pull the face off. Disconnect the cable attached to the frame.
Unscrew the 4-6 screws holding the screen unit in and pull it out. You will also need to remove the frame piece seen here.
This is the problem! The digitizers connection to the ribbon cable is very fragile. You can see my prior fix in this photo.
After carefully disconnecting the digitizer cable, you need to test the traces to find out which connection failed, as it's not visible to the eye.
The resistance between pins 1 and 3, and 2 and 4 should be about 500 and 1700 ohms. If not, then you have found your bad connector.
After gently scraping the thin layer of insulation away using an exacto knife or something similar, use the silver conductive pen to repair the trace.
After the silver "ink" dries (the silver ink isn't conductive until it dries), test the connection again and make sure it reads either 500 or 1700 ohms. Reinstall everything and Viola! Working touch!