It all starts here — whether you want to convert your single-speed to a fixed-gear or add a new gear ratio to your current fixie — pick a cog to suit your needs and abilities.
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The less teeth a cog has the higher the gear ratio — harder to pedal, faster. Odd numbers of teeth (esp primes) give you more skid patches & help tires last longer. 17t is a popular, balanced choice.
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Flip your bike over onto the handlebars/seat or throw it on a repair stand so it is easy to work with.
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Nearly all track hubs are threaded on both sides so you can have two cogs handy on one wheel. This bike already has a freewheel — we'll add a fixed cog so it has both single-speed & fixed options.
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Grab your 15mm hex wrench…
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…loosen the rear wheel nuts and remove the rear wheel from the bike.
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If you haven't already opened a cold one, now's a good time. This is a hard step to miss because all bike tools have bottle openers integrated into them in one way or another.
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Scrub down the threads on your hub so they clean are shiny - like new. You don't want any stray bits of dirt f#€&ing up your precious hub threads. Seriously. Get that s*!t clean.
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While you are at it, give the whole wheel a good scrub down. Microfiber cloth works wonders on getting grease and grime off.
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Hell, just give the whole bike a proper wash & detail. Fixies are at least 50% fashion. What's the point if your ride's not looking tight?
Step 11 of 20
Time to add the new cog & lockring. One side of the cog (shown here) is made to fit flush with the lockring. The other side faces the spokes & has a spacer to help line the chain with the crank.
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Apply a liberal amount of grease to the theads of the cog and the lockring…
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…and add a nice coat of grease to the hub threads as well. You want everything to go on smooth while providing a good seal to water & grime.
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Time to add the cog. Start by screwing the cog onto the hub by hand. Righty tighty. Smooth & easy. Never force it. If something jams, stop and inspect. Better to seek help here than dethread your hub.
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Using a chain whip, tighten the cog firmly onto the hub. No excessive force, just nice & tight.
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Start the lockring onto the smaller set of threads by hand as well. It screws in the opposite direction — lefty tighty.
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Tighten the lockring with a matching tool. Most look like this and work with a variety of notch patterns. Check with your local bike shop if you're not sure which tool works with your ring.
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Put the rear wheel back on, this time so that the new cog lines up with the chain.
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Slide the rear axle back in the dropouts until your chain is nice and tight. If your new cog is significantly larger or smaller than your old cog you may need to adjust your chain size first.
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Go find some friends & learn some fixie tricks! Enjoy your new set-up and ride safe.
something already designed or set up to be outfitted as a track bike. Most bikes currently on the market advertised as "single-speed" bikes are set up this way. Check around for articles on track bikes for more!
Morgan, a track bike is one that is designed to be set up with a fixed gear for racing on a closed track (velodrome). Other bikes can converted to a track bike but that is advanced process for most people - so this guide just assumes you're starting out with a
With a fixed gear bike you can lock up your rear wheel and skid it — sorta a rudimentary form of breaking (and just a fun trick). Skidding wears down your tire fast and creates wear patches, or skid patches, on the tire. Your gear ratio will determine in how many places the tire wears down (since most people always skid with their pedals in position that gives them the most leverage). There are articles on the internet which can help explain why this is in more detail.
This video is actually an example of a lockring that isn't going on smoothly. I stopped to remove the ring to checked the threads. Turns out it was manufacturing error (stamped metal manufacturing by Dimension). I had to smooth out burrs on the threads with a screwdriver before it went on the hub without force.
unfortunately I stick to the cheapo one like you have pictured... I don't add or remove lock rings enough to warrant buying a nicer tool. maybe some day...
Good point. The downside of flexibility is that you compromise performance here. This is a Hozan C-205 which worked well for me if you take care to avoid lateral movement. Phil Wood makes a very nice (and expensive) line of lockring-specific tools - probably worth it if you stick to one type of ring. Most people will be limited by what tool they can afford or borrow, but it would be nice to see some wrench-based adapters like they make for cassettes! Brian, do you have a favorite tool for this?
because it doesn't actually fit just right on to anything like most other tools. it is mostly a pain in the ass when removing a lock ring and trying to get in to a position to get enough leverage to pop that shit loose.
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